Westgrain Wood Wax

Caring for Wood the Right Way: Why I Use My Own Wood Wax

As a woodworker, I spend most of my time making things that are meant to be used—cutting boards, butcher blocks, trays, and other practical items for the kitchen. These are things that take a beating over time. Knives, water, food scraps, and heat all wear them down. Not to mention the soapy scrubs they get each time they are cleaned.

There are plenty of wood finishes out there and each has its pros and cons. While I won't go over them all here – that's a whole series of articles in itself. I make a lot of food preparation surfaces and needed a finish that doesn't require multiple coats or break the bank either. I won't point any fingers but some products out there are quite pricey for what they are.

That’s why I started making my own Westgrain Wood Wax—because I needed something simple and reliable to finish and maintain the pieces I make. A single coat with a wipe on - wait - wipe off technique that requires very little skill or effort to get great results – every time. I use it in my shop on every item that might end up touching food.

Here is a small board I made with walnut and maple. Finished with my wood wax.

What’s In It

Westgrain Wood Wax is made in small batches, by hand, in my workshop. It’s a simple blend: four parts food-grade mineral oil to one part refined beeswax. Nothing more.

The oil penetrates and nourishes the wood from the inside. The beeswax creates a barrier on the surface, sealing in the oil and helping to repel moisture. This combination brings out the natural tones and grain of the wood without leaving it sticky or overly glossy.

There are no added scents or pigments or preservatives so it won't discolor or tint your boards. I like to keep things straightforward.

What is Mineral Oil?

Food-grade mineral oil, in this context, is a clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum distillation that’s been refined to the point of being completely inert and non-toxic. That means it won’t go rancid, spoil, or react with food or materials. It’s used in food production, baking equipment, even as a laxative in some cases. So yes—it’s completely safe to ingest, though obviously that’s not the point here.

For wooden kitchenware, mineral oil works especially well because it soaks deep into the wood, hydrating it from within and helping to prevent cracking, drying, or absorbing moisture.

Food-grade mineral oil is a clear and inert liquid that soaks into the wood.

What is Beeswax?

Beeswax is a natural wax made by honeybees of the genus Apis. It has long been used in woodworking, cosmetics, candle making, and even in food products like cheese wax or chewing gum. Like mineral oil, it’s perfectly safe to ingest, and actually has some natural antibacterial properties.

In this case, the beeswax serves as a top coat: it’s non-porous and water-repellent, so it seals in the mineral oil while also giving the wood a smooth, soft finish. It doesn’t clog pores or trap bacteria—it just adds a light protective layer that helps repel water and keeps your board or block clean.

Beeswax is usually a dark to light yellow in color. This coloration depends on the source, type of flower the hive was harvesting and other environmental factors. This is great for candle-making, cosmetics and other health products. I tend to go for wax that has been rendered several times and possibly UV treated to try and get it as white as reasonably possible in order to avoid discoloration of the board.

Refined beeswax that has been rendered several times tends to lose its yellow color as more "impurities" are removed.

Why Oil, Not Water

Because it’s an oil-based finish, it won’t raise the grain of the wood or leave those white rings from a wet cup that you sometimes see from water-based finishes. It soaks in deep, and once it's buffed out, the surface is smooth and lightly sealed—without feeling plastic or coated. Most importantly, it won't wash out every time you clean your board with water.

Where It Works Best

While you can use it on indoor furniture, this wood wax is really best for items that come into contact with food—cutting boards, butcher blocks, catchall trays, wooden spoons, serving boards, that kind of thing. That’s where it shines.

If the wood looks dry, feels rough, or starts absorbing water instead of repelling it, it’s probably time for a refresh.

How to Use It

Here’s how I do it:

1. Make sure the wood is clean and dry.

2. Use your hands to spread an even layer. No fancy tools needed. Hands work best—get in there and get a tactile sense of what's happening. No need for extra pressure and no need to rub – just coat and smear. About the thickness you'd spread butter on toast.

3. Let it sit for a bit and allow the board to draw in the mineral oil. A few minutes is fine. A few hours or overnight is much better.

4. When you are ready – use paper towels to wipe off the excess oily wax. Don’t use your good dish towels—you’ll gum them up with the wax.

   

   Get your hands working and smear a good coat overnight - wipe off excess the next day.

   
   

How Often Should I Apply

On an everyday board that gets chopped on, scraped, tossed around and cleaned regularly I'd recommend a coat every 3 to 6 months. Honestly, I'm more of a 6+ month user myself.

That’s it. No need to overthink it. Just give the wood what it wants and it'll last for years.